Whole Wheat Dough

A robust, earthy dough made with whole wheat flour that produces pasta with a nuttier flavor and heartier texture than refined-flour doughs. Whole wheat flour tends to absorb more moisture than white flour and creates a slightly less elastic dough, so recipes often include extra liquid or blend whole wheat with other flours. Vetri pairs whole wheat pasta with bold sauces like olive oil-braised octopus, proving that this humble dough can be a worthy partner to sophisticated preparations.

Ingredients

• 495g finely ground whole wheat flour (about 4 cups + 2 tablespoons, plus more as needed)
• 4 large eggs
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (15ml)
• 2 tablespoons warm water (30ml, plus more as needed)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

Method

1. Mound the whole wheat flour on a clean work surface and make a well in the center. Add the salt to the flour.
2. Crack the eggs into the well and add the olive oil and water. Using a fork, beat the eggs and gradually draw in flour from the inner walls of the well.
3. When the dough becomes too thick for a fork, bring it together with your hands. Whole wheat flour absorbs more moisture than white flour, so if the dough feels too dry and crumbly, add warm water a teaspoon at a time until it comes together.
4. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is elastic and smooth. Whole wheat dough requires thorough kneading to develop the gluten properly. It will never be as silky as white-flour dough, but it should feel cohesive and supple.
5. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest for at least 30 minutes (up to 2 hours) before rolling it out and cutting it into the desired format. The longer rest allows the bran to soften and the gluten to relax.
6. Roll out using a pasta machine or rolling pin. Whole wheat dough can be stiffer to roll — be patient and work it through each setting gradually. Cut into the desired shape.

Tips

• Whole wheat flour absorbs more moisture than white flour, so you will likely need to add extra water. Adjust gradually.
• For better results, The Encyclopedia of Pasta advises adding some all-purpose flour to make the dough more pliable and the pasta more tender.
• Vetri suggests using 'weak' flours carefully: you always need enough strength and elasticity for the dough to be rolled out. If you want to make whole wheat pasta, blend in some 00 or bread flour for added structure.
• A blend of semolina and whole wheat also works well. Vetri's whole wheat and semolina dough uses 317g semolina with 135g whole wheat flour and cold water — no eggs — for a sturdier, chewier result.
• The Encyclopedia of Pasta calls for a longer total time of 2 hours 30 minutes — the extended rest is beneficial for whole wheat doughs.
• Whole wheat pasta pairs well with bold, earthy flavors: braised meats, mushrooms, walnuts, browned butter, and hearty vegetable sauces.

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